Hello all,
I'm just getting into the karaoke business and I'm shopping around for a professional system. How many watts of power would be recommended for rooms from 1000 to 1500 ft^2 or so? ...300w?, ...600w?, ...1000w? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
New to business - system power.
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karaokebob13
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:10 pm
- Location: Deerfield Beach, FL
Personally, I wouldn't go any smaller than 600W (300W/Channel). Ideally, I'd say go with at least 1000W. The thing is, 600W would cover a room like what you've described, however you'd be pushing the system to close to 100%. That's not good, what you want is what is referred to as head room. Unlike a car's engine which typically runs it's best at a higher RPM (think horsepower curve) and amplifier's performance deteriorates as you push it closer and closer to it's max. As the output level of your amp goes up, more and more harmonic distortion is introduced. This is not good for your speakers (and ultimately not the amp either).
So the goal would be to get a system that has the capability to fill a much larger room and then run it at a lower output level. For instance, I have a 1400W system that I use in most clubs (that's my 2-ways without the subs). Most of the time, I'm running it between 25-40%. This allows me to keep the amplifier running efficiently and producing optimum sound.
Also as you look at this stuff, remember if you amplifier has a max rating of 300W per channel, your speakers should have an RMS rating of 150W (300W Program and 600W Peak). The rule of thumb is your amp should have a max rating around double the RMS rating of your speakers. This again ensures head room and minimal distorition. It's that distortion that will blow your high-end drivers.
So the goal would be to get a system that has the capability to fill a much larger room and then run it at a lower output level. For instance, I have a 1400W system that I use in most clubs (that's my 2-ways without the subs). Most of the time, I'm running it between 25-40%. This allows me to keep the amplifier running efficiently and producing optimum sound.
Also as you look at this stuff, remember if you amplifier has a max rating of 300W per channel, your speakers should have an RMS rating of 150W (300W Program and 600W Peak). The rule of thumb is your amp should have a max rating around double the RMS rating of your speakers. This again ensures head room and minimal distorition. It's that distortion that will blow your high-end drivers.
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LarryKaraoke
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Sun Apr 05, 2009 9:27 pm
- Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada
Here's another point to consider. The SIZE of the room. IE, shape. If it has sub rooms, alcoves etc or is a long thin room, you may want to add another set of speakers to cover those areas. Like half way down the room, or against the back wall. This can be with a separate amp or by splitting the signal if your amp can handle that. I prefer second amp and speakers. I run 300 per side for my mobile system, but I add another separate amp and speakers if the room warrents it. It has worked well. The draw back of having 2 smaller systems over a large system, is the cost. The advantage is, you gain versatility, and you have a built in back-up system.
Welcome to the Bizz, and good luck..
Welcome to the Bizz, and good luck..
I have to say that at 1500 ft^2 your venue is pretty small. Only an 11.5 feet cube.
As the guys above have said, try to stay away from amps that claim enormous power outputs and have a good look at the actual specification.
The magic term is RMS power, not "Program", "Music" or "Peak" and it should tell you into what load impedence (usually 4 or 8 Ohms).
Strictly speaking, even RMS power is wrong and the correct term is "Average" power.
Vrms x Irms = Pave., not Prms.
A speaker that can handle your amp. with a bit of overhead is what to go with. IMHO.
Clipping your amp. will kill IT, rather than the speaker whereas if you overload the speaker coils, you'll do serious mechanical damage.
Also, look at speaker efficiency, rather than just power handling. If you pay decent monay to get efficient speakers, you will be able to get suitable volume levels, without having to wind your amp up to maximum.
For a 1500 Ft^2 room, I would think 600W is more than enough (presuming it actually means 300W average/channel, that is
)
Good luck with your system,
Sandy
As the guys above have said, try to stay away from amps that claim enormous power outputs and have a good look at the actual specification.
The magic term is RMS power, not "Program", "Music" or "Peak" and it should tell you into what load impedence (usually 4 or 8 Ohms).
Strictly speaking, even RMS power is wrong and the correct term is "Average" power.
Vrms x Irms = Pave., not Prms.
A speaker that can handle your amp. with a bit of overhead is what to go with. IMHO.
Clipping your amp. will kill IT, rather than the speaker whereas if you overload the speaker coils, you'll do serious mechanical damage.
Also, look at speaker efficiency, rather than just power handling. If you pay decent monay to get efficient speakers, you will be able to get suitable volume levels, without having to wind your amp up to maximum.
For a 1500 Ft^2 room, I would think 600W is more than enough (presuming it actually means 300W average/channel, that is
)Good luck with your system,
Sandy
